I wanted to go diving someplace off the beaten path and only had time for a long weekend, starting from Miami. I took out my map of the Caribbean and Central America, and in what resembled a game of musical chairs, I eliminated destinations one by one. One was too expensive, one was too far, one was too crowded with Bermuda-shorts-wearing tourists. Others just had too many connecting flights.

Finally, there was Nicaragua. One reason I chose it was the lack of commercial tourist operations. A couple of Central American tour companies told me there wasn't a single commercial dive operation in the country. They were wrong. Nicaragua also just seemed more exciting than many of the more run-of-the-mill options.

Mention Nicaragua to most people and they still conjure images of contras, clandestine arms shipments and Oliver North. But the contras are no more, North has a talk show, and by most accounts Nicaragua has the lowest crime rate in Central America.

Although my trip was aimed at scuba diving, I discovered there is much more to recommend in this Central American country. In fact the other attractions - from bar hopping to sightseeing - are even more interesting.

I made all the trip arrangements with Fidel Lopez of http://Abucear.com, Nicaragua's only locally owned dive operation. It is based in San Juan del Sur, about two hours southwest of Managua and just 20 minutes north of the Costa Rican border on the Pacific Coast.

Since arrangements had been made online, I really didn't know what to expect. Lopez seemed knowledgeable, but there were horror stories in dive magazines about the equipment being from World War II. These descriptions turned out to be far from the truth. The gear is old but in good working order. Of course, it's a good idea to bring your own gear, but it isn't necessary.

Lopez picked me up at the Managua airport as planned.

The drive from Managua to San Juan del Sur is a beautiful one, with views of the lakes, volcanoes and homes clustered along the sides of the road. Actually, driving in Nicaragua (mercifully with a local behind the wheel) is "interesting," to say the least.

The roads are not like American interstates. They have huge potholes, and it seems none of the norms of driving in the United States - use of turn signals, speed limits, vehicle standards - apply. There are occasional checkpoints, where police check identification and, sometimes, the trunk.

San Juan del Sur is a sleepy little village with a picturesque bay and beach and a smattering of nice bed-and-breakfast hotels. The beach is dotted with bars and restaurants: This is an ideal location for anyone who wants to just hang out on the beach, eating and drinking. There were a few middle-age tourists walking around, but most seemed to be what one friend referred to as "sandalistas," 20-something backpackers.

There is plenty of time for eating and drinking, but the Pacific beckoned. It was around 6 p.m. Time to jump in. Not only had I never dived the Pacific, but I had also never done a night dive.

Diving the Pacific in Nicaragua is different from diving in the Atlantic. The coastline lies hard upon water 60 feet deep and the beaches are small and spread out. The water was not rough, but there were swells continuously. Nothing alarming, but certainly different. It is as if you can feel the power of the vast Pacific beating on you.

"Everyone goes to the Atlantic," says Lopez. "They have clear water, white sand, pretty fish; it's like an aquarium. The Pacific is the real thing. It's like seeing animals in a zoo or in the jungle. The Pacific is the jungle."

Lopez points to the greater variety and larger species of marine life to be found in Pacific waters.

And the Pacific Coast can also be virgin territory for recreational divers. On the second day, Lopez took the dive club - all 10 of us divers - to the wreck of a Russian shrimp trawler just off the coast.

The first time I went down, teamed with two other divers, we found nothing but sand. My air was low and I left the water.

Lopez gave me another tank and I finally saw the wreck.

It was an eerie sight in the cloudy water. Shoals of small fish became visible before you could see the wreck. The entire trawler was surrounded by fish. Even more impressive: We were the first noncommercial divers to dive that site.

And there are likely many more wrecks as yet unfound.

As we got back to shore, there was a fiesta beginning right next to the marina.

After a shower and a nap, I decided to join the festivities.

The fiesta began promisingly. As I tried to figure out where and how to buy a ticket, a young woman pinched me on the rear end. I managed to find the tickets but never could locate the woman again.

The air was festive. There was a band, and most of the crowd was dancing. Periodically, someone would come up and start a conversation. Despite my Tarzan-like Spanish, people would still endeavor to talk to me.

People in Nicaragua are friendly, I began thinking. Although it probably helped that I was holding a bottle of rum and pouring drinks, too.

After two dives in San Juan del Sur, I wanted to see other nearby areas. At the top of my list was Granada.

About 45 minutes northeast of San Juan del Sur, Granada, which dates from the 1500s, looks like any number of small towns and cities in Spain's Andalusia. Lopez told me the government was painting all the buildings in Granada without charge to residents as part of a plan to increase tourism.

Granada has beautiful old churches and a lakefront drive, with lodging ranging from the luxurious Hotel Alhambra to hostels such as Hospedaje Central. You can get a private room in the latter for $10 a night, or bunk in the dormitory-style room for around $3. Hotel Alhambra is a bit pricier, starting at $40 per night.

With its shops and sightseeing spots, Granada has probably the greatest appeal to the average traveler. I regretted not planning more than part of an afternoon in Granada. The charm of the city and its proximity to other sights make it an ideal home base on a short trip.

I was able to include two stops nearby: Mirador de Catarina and the Masaya Volcano. Neither of these need take much time.

Before I went to Nicaragua I was told that looking into the Masaya Volcano was like looking into the mouth of hell. That is an accurate description. It is a large, black hole, spewing smoke. The surrounding hills are bright green, which somehow makes the crater even more eerie. I was told that the volcano occasionally belches out rocks and debris.

When we drove up to the volcano - on the best paved road we drove on - the security guard asked Lopez to back his car into the parking space. Why? In case the volcano erupted, we'd be facing the right way.

It doesn't take a long time to look at the volcano and the small onsite museum.

Not too far distant is Mirador de Catarina overlooking Laguna de Apoyo. The view from the outlook is spectacular. Fro*m there, you can also see the Mombacho Volcano, where they have canopy tours.

If you are feeling adventurous, there are rough trails you can take from el Mirador. There are also restaurants and tourist kiosks selling interesting items ranging from Buddhist beads to woodwork.

It is difficult to get a sense of a place when you visit for only a few days. But would I go back? My answer is yes.

I want to return to try the canopy tour at Mombacho, where you glide through the rain-forest canopy on a cable, to explore the cafes and shops of Granada more extensively, and maybe try again to be among the first to dive another shipwreck. I'm also told there is good diving in the Corn Islands, on the Caribbean side.

The possibilities far outstrip a long weekend.